Britain's
obsession with curry began with the "raj1" in India and was
reinforced by post war immigration from the sub-continent. In the early
days "a curry" was something to eat after the pubs closed (see
Keith Floyds account) but things have now gladly matured and most restaurants
offer good food to customers looking for more than some "grub" after the
"pub". Indeed "Chicken Tikka Masala" a British curry,
has overtaken fish and chips as the nations favourite meal. These dishes
are often far removed from the authentic food of the sub continent, rather
they are fusion cooking, we are privileged to be witnessing a food tradition
in the making, be part of it!
1]British
rule in India, literally "reign"
"The
old men running the (film) industry just have not got a clue…Britain is
no longer totally a white place where people ride horses, wear long frocks
and drink tea. The national dish is no longer fish and chips, it's curry."
Marianne Jean-Baptiste (British actress) May 97 (about Cannes film festival)
Curry
Books
A
short A to Z of Anglo-Indian food
Don't
take the recipes (where given) too literally, play around and experiment,
thats half the fun. Some, like vindaloo, I have tried to make authentic,
others like "CTM", well, what is authentic?
(Recipes
are for 2)
Balti
Curry
originally popular in Birmingham, taking its name from its pot (in the
same way curry takes its name from the karahi), traditionally eaten with
bread direct from the sizzling pan.
Bhuna
Sautee
or pot roast
Biryani
Biryani
is a mild but fragrant rice dish.
Biryani
recipe
Bread
Half
of Indian food is eaten with rice, but the other half is eaten with various
types of flatbread.
Chicken
Tikka Masala ("CTM")
Chicken
Tikka Masala is the most popular curry in the UK and is even exported back
to the sub-continent so that hungry British tourists will not be disappointed.
Basically is it chicken tikka with a cream and tomato based sauce added.
Chicken
Tikka Masala recipe
Chutney
(chatni)
Made
from spices with tamarind, unripe mango, coconut or tomato. Should be sweet
and sour but British adaptations tend to be sweeter.
Country
Captain
An
old name for a chicken curry, originating halfway through the 19th Century
and turning up in places as far apart as Liverpool and the deep south of
USA.
Dhall
S
Dopiaza
"Two
onions". A dopiaza is made by adding half the onion early and frying it
then adding the second half raw towards the end of cooking.
Kedgeree
(khichri)
Kedgeree
originated in the British Raj as an adaptation of sub-continent cuisine
to meet the needs of the British.Many recipes add prawns and smoked salmon,
but I feel its best kept simple with smoked haddock or cod.
Kedgeree
recipe
Keema
Pimento
Beef
and green (bell) peppers.
The
key here is too keep the peppers quite crisp
Keema
Pimento recipe
Kofta
Minced
into meatballs.
Korma
Braised
in a sealed pot, mild and creamy.
Madras
Madras
is now known as Chennai, but you will normally still find "Madras" curries
on menus in UK. It will be at the hotter end of the spectrum, below the
restaurant "Vindaloo" and "Phall". (The Vindaloo
recipe here does not reflect this restaurant chilli grading convention
but rather the Goan dish). The "tradition" of Madras curry is that chillis
should be added in two stages. In other words adding some more chillis
to a mild sauce to make a hotter one. Perhaps try some ground chilli
at the start and then some chopped fresh red chillis near the end of the
cooking.
Mulligatawny
soup
A
corruption of "pepper water" (tamil - milagu-tannir). A curry soup invented
in the sub continent to satisfy the English need for soup.
Paneer
- (cottage cheese)
Paneer
is very easy to make at home.
Cubed
and fried paneer is good with peas or spinach as a side dish
Paneer
recipe
Rice
Everybody
has a method of cooking rice that they swear by and everyone is different.
Mine
is very simple. Buy good quality Basmati rice. Rinse it in cold water then
add one cup per 2 persons to a good quantity of boiling water. Bring back
to the boil and keep at a rolling boil for 10 minutes. Strain and rinse
with hot water. Serve. (The rinsed rice will keep warm in a cool oven if
needed).
Samosa
S
Tandoori
Cooked
in a tandoor (clay oven)
Tarka
Seared
in hot oil or ghee,caramalised.
Tiffin
Anglo-Indian
term for lunch.
Vindaloo
This
is a Portugese/Goan, rather than Indian dish. There is some dispute about
how this dish should be prepared. I believe this is reasonably accurate
recipe and is based on "vindaloo" being deriving from wine-garlic in Portuguese
(not aloo-potato, which I believe is reverse engineering) and uses the
pork pickled in wine vinegar the Portuguese brought with them on their
ships.(This recipe has nothing to do with most restaurant vindaloos, which
are hotter versions of "Madras").
Vindaloo
recipe
Worcester
sauce
The
story goe the a barrel of indian spiced vinegar was left to ferment over
a number of years and the accidental result was Worcester(shire) sauce.
Books
Where
there is a price button you
may order the book from the bookseller.
Sahni
Classic
Indian cookery
The
Indian comprehensive culinary classics
Classic
Indian vegetarian cookery
"and
now for something completely different"
Floyd's
India
Keith
Floyd's trip around India for channel 5. Floyds relates his journey in
his inimitable style, well illustrated with photos from the trip and of
course the recipes.
Floyd
reminisces about the early days of curry in Britain:-
".......Everybody
had probably drunk between 10 and 20 pints of beer since the first dignified
pint in the White Elephant. Two or three would have fallen by the wayside,
quite literally; some of the sensible ones would have returned to their
wives, but the single guys were hungry . A leader always emerges at a time
of crisis. It was the one who stood on the table, pint in hand, tie unknotted,
shirt undone, who, bright eyed and sweating, called out 'Who's for the
Curry House?'
And so, once again, we piled back into the vehicles, more crowded than
before because one or two had disappeared, and headed back over the Clifton
suspension bridge, down to the city centre, past the bus station and along
to Stokes Croft where a flickering yellow neon sign announced the existence
of the Koh I Noor Indian Restaurant.
Inside
the dining room, with its 14 tables standing on a slightly sticky, thick
carpet, each table had a slightly soiled but very starched tablecloth.
The walls were covered in tawdry flock and the exhausted waiters, in their
stained dinner jackets which were almost a deep, dark green through years
of wear, adjusted their clip-on bow ties and prepared for the onslaught.
They had an air of resigned acquiescence. Each table was dressed simply
with a salt and pepper pot and a stainless steel sugar bowl filled with
white sugar lumps. The call was for - because that's all there really was
- six chicken vindaloo, nine meat Madras, four plates of evil smelling,
deep-fried, crispy Bombay duck and mango chutney and, of course, 15 pints
of lager. The bewildered waiter wrote the order on a series of little duplicate
pads and headed for the kitchen only to be called back by the blue-eyed
fly-half with crinkly blond hair, who was training to be an accountant,
and from his position of authority on the main table he would say, 'Make
that 30 pints.' Eventually, on white plates, the pungent curries and mountains
of plain boiled rice arrived. There was, of course, not enough cheap stainless
steel cutlery to go round. The Madras was hot, fiery and acrid, the vindaloo
was diabolical. One by one, chaps would go to the bog but, one by one,
they didn't return because the old hands knew that you could climb our
of the window and then you wouldn't have to pay your share of the bill.
So, every Saturday night was a mad Madras night.
Well,
dear reader, that was in another time. It was before Indian restaurants
became a culinary force to be reckoned with, before silver leaf garnished
fragrant biryanis.
It
was before Britain had ever heard of a tandoor oven..............."

Noon
book of Indian cookery
Gulam
Noon MBE founded Noon products in 1988, his company produces 3 million
indian meals a month (for Waitrose among others). Here his chefs [1] give
practical and authentic dishes for the home cooking curry enthusiast. These
recipes work well, due in part to attention being paid to which spices
should be fried and which pureed, rather than the "chuck them all in" approach
of some books. Many slightly unusual recipes are included, such as "Janglee
Maans with Sag Paneer" (Venison in spicy sauce with spinach and cheese).
1]
Sumit
Malik - International Indian chef of the year 1999
B.
Sainath Rao - Taj Hotels, India, Bombay Brasserie
Puneet
Arora - Taj Hotels, Jumeirah Beach Hotel
Rakesh
Yadav - In flight kitchens, Delhi.
Ashok
Kaul - Noon products.
Vishal
Rew - Oberoi group in Bombay, Delhi and Agra
"I
have known Noon (no-one knows him as anything else) for ten years and it's
thanks to him that I once - for the only time in my life - cheated on my
dinner guests. Hidden in the kitchen were a variety of packs of his wonderful,
factory-made curries"
Delia
Smith: seeing, in the cause of research, if her guests would be fooled,
(they were).

Paperback

The
Good Curry Guide Pat Chapman
Where
to find the 1000 best curry houses in Britain.
(2001) (only
1999 edition listed in US)
The
Curry Secret
How
to reproduce restaurant style curries.

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